Click below to listen to my 2 min. Garden Bite radio show: Vegetable crop rotation – a how-to
Crop rotation is the single easiest thing we can do to keep soil nutrients working FOR us and to help prevent disease. Ideally you could rotate your crops each year, but even if you do it every few years, you’re making an impact. Certain plants take certain nutrients out of the soil, while others actually put it back!
But what crops do you rotate with?
In simple terms, divide your vegetables into three categories:
- Root and bulb – think carrots, beets , potatoes, garlic and onions
- Fruit and Seed, – think tomatoes, cucumber, beans, corn, peppers and peas
- Leaf and Stem – think broccoli, celery, cauliflower, spinach, lettuce and kale.
This isn’t a complete list. In fact, there are many methods and you can go further with specific plant families.
Dividing your garden into areas will help. Although sticking to “hard” lines of what goes where often doesn’t work! Tomatoes need more room than beets and carrots!
There are lots of apps for home gardeners. I don’t use them. Guess I’m just old school. However, that doesn’t mean I don’t think they’re useful. If you’re of a digital mind, then by all means, give them a shot. Here’s a link to several kinds.
Here’s a more in depth explanation of the what and why of crop rotation from the University of Wisconsin Extension. Using Crop Rotation in the Home Garden.
You want to follow heavy to medium feeders that draw a lot of nutrients from the soil (tomatoes, corn, cabbage, peppers) with either light feeders (carrots, beets, onions) or heavy givers (beans, peas) that will actually fix nitrogen in the soil and enrich it. – For fertilizing, keep in mind what your plants need. Root, fruit and seed vegetables need more phosphorus aka P and potassium aka K. Leaf and stem veggies use more nitrogen aka N. Don’t feel overwhelmed by this, instead use it as a guideline. And, please, send me your comments, questions or suggestions. I love to hear from you and LEARN from you as well.